Back home we would call them just a couple of local yokels. We also thought “pate” was the name of the redhead pig-tailed girl down the block. Duck for dinner, meant our pet duck—Flopsy Doodle—would have a place setting at the table. True!

Growing up on a country farm gives you a better than average understanding of locally grown, organic and fresh. Finding a dining establishment that naturally gets seasonal comfort food without being pretentious is truly fresh indeed.

Welcome to “Eat Out”—a Coachella Valley bona fide foodies’ trek behind the scenes, on the plates, and face to face with the people who make dining out enjoyable, affordable and memorable for our community.

This week we look at TRIO Restaurant and Bar, the latest entree to the ever expanding and chic Uptown area of Palm Springs—the new design center of the affluent Old Las Palmas district. Completely renovating the former Boscoso, with both menu and milieu, the new TRIO is a feast for the eyes and the palate. If any indication is its series of jam-packed opening premieres, this is now the “where are you Friday night?” hot spot. TRIO is open nightly seven days a week.

Local business entrepreneurs Tony Marchese and Chef Mark Van Laanen are taking big risks with amazingly big rewards. With a newly redesigned multi-room space, accented by modern furnishings (check out the five-foot rubber chandelier in one of the formal rooms) from nearby euro-chic Design Within Reach, the American modern flare works very well, complimenting the contemporary fare. 

My partner and I were seated at a lovely table in a space framed by original works of stylish art, a comment I could equally make about the eclectic clientele; everyone was unique, colorful and having fun. When was the last time you had fun at dinner?

“When you walk in the door, it’s all about comfort, the surroundings and the food,” Marchese said, looking relaxed and in charge. “We want our restaurant to give a feeling of energy, a desert-casual atmosphere—a place where anyone can come dine two to three times a week.” 

Well, here are three tempting reasons to go to TRIO. 

One: The ‘Local’ Concept
Chef Van Laanen is not new to the culinary scene, having topped previous successful restaurants in Wisconsin (Trio Restaurant, Bayou on 3rd, and the Village Grill). With tables full and customers’ expectations high, Mark made time to discuss his idea for TRIO. “I’ve loved cooking for family and friends since I was in my teens,” he said. “Everything is fresh not frozen and will be organic whenever possible, based on the season.”

As for Tony, he previously owned and operated Rhumba restaurant (voted Top 20 in Chicago Magazine), and numerous high profile nightclubs.

Two: The Food
The Midwestern influenced menu offers a variety of fish, steak, organic salads and vegetarian cuisine, plus unique seasonal items from local growers and farmers. Our meal started with Van Laanen’s signature Wisconsin cheese plate, then perfectly plated and prepared Lamb Shank, braised in burgundy, rosemary and garlic, served with lentils, and Sea Food Stew with an amazing red sauce worth licking the plate, though we did hold back.

Three: The Price
Dinners start at around $14 for the Linguini with Wild Mushrooms. Duck Confit on a bed of braised red cabbage, $17. Sea Bass with a veal demi-glaze, orange zest and parsley served with an herbed orzo, $17.

“People still love to eat out,” Marchese said of opening in a sluggish economy. “We’re serving great food that most everyone can afford.” I considered asking Tony for a permanent booth.  I even volunteered my partner to do the dishes.

After we settled our bill, we moved to the well-crowded scene at the bar. I ordered another glass of the Mark West Pinot Noir. “I Got a Feeling” by the Black Eyed Peas played over the sound system.  I already had a great feeling about TRIO and asked the chef if they plan on serving black-eyed peas anytime soon.

My Aunt Faye used to say,  “Hospitality is making your guests feel at home, even though you wish they were.” 

Sorry Aunt Faye, at TRIO it’s just the opposite; a welcoming staff, menu and bar, all warming to a fellow local yokel.

—Phillip Large, The Bottom Line Magazine